A Day at the Beach in Northern Italy

Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

Italy has miles of coastline and naturally miles of beach. Not all coastline in Italy is amenable to a beach because some is more amenable to harbors or jagged cliffs. I had the good fortune to be able to enjoy some of the best beaches in northern Italy and they were in San Remo, Levanto, and Rimini.

San Remo is in the northwestern area of Italy, in an area considered to be the Italian Riviera. Very near to France, San Remo has a temperate climate and wonderful beaches. In the month of June the Mediterranean Sea was warm enough for me to swim there. Known as a resort city, San Remo has wonderful beaches and hotels, and many of the hotels have private beaches. Use of these beaches, which are called lido, usually is included with the price of a hotel reservation. This typically includes two lounge chairs and a beach umbrella, and sometimes a cabana as well. A public beach area is always available in addition to the private beaches.San Remo, Italy Beaches

Levanto is a family friendly town which makes a good base for visiting the Cinque Terre in Liguria. The train runs through Levanto and it makes for easy access, while not as expensive as staying within the Cinque Terre villages. The beach at Levanto is great not only for swimmers but for surfers as well. Its length is a plus and the sand at Levanto is not full of stones. The clean water and the giant waves make Levanto a favorite for surfers. Recently a world surfing championship was held in the waters of Levanto. I found the crescent shape of the beach to be a perfect spot for sunset photos, and I enjoyed watching the surfers as they rode the waves in to shore.

I visited this beach just before the summer season began, so things were fairly quiet. In season the beach is filled with chairs and umbrellas as sunbathers soak up the hot sun. Above the beach is a promenade and shops and restaurants are easily accessible.Levanto, Italy Beach

Rimini has long been considered one of Italy's favorite beaches. In the summer months it is also one of the most crowded. Rimini is located on Italy's eastern coast, and its beaches sit on the Adriatic Sea. Because of its nine miles of sandy beaches, Rimini attracts Italians and European travelers all summer.  When I spent an afternoon on the lovely beaches of Rimini, I spent four euros for a beach chair and an umbrella. I felt like I had died and gone to heaven.

Italy has many other beaches, some smaller and some larger. These are just a few of the beaches in the northern part of Italy. A day at an Italian beach was the perfect reprieve for me after walking around in the hot sun exploring ancient ruins and architecture.Rimini, Italy Beach

Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

Follow Margie on her blog at margieinitaly.wordpress.com


Traveling on Credit Card Miles or Points


Thinking of Rome maybe a weekend in Paris or just a exotic cruise in the Caribbean. One of the best benefits a credit card has to offer consumers is the ability to Traveling on Credit Card Miles or Points. Some credit cards offer travelers miles for every dollar spent, while other cards offer cardholders points for every dollar spent. Here is a quick guide to using credit card miles and points to book a fabulous vacation.



Credit card miles are given for every dollar spent. These miles can then be exchanged for airline tickets. It typically takes somewhere between 25,000 to 50,000 miles to get a ticket good for domestic air travel. More miles need to be used for business class, first class or international tickets.
Travel the World on Credit Card Miles and Points
The problem with credit card rewards in the form of miles is that there are not always seats available on flights customers want to take. This forces them to use extra miles to get a seat on the plane. This is why many people are turning to points instead of miles for their credit card rewards.


The great thing about point rewards is that they can be used for many more purchases than simply airline tickets. They can be used to get hotel reservations, airfare, electronics and many more amazing rewards. It makes it really convenient when a traveler can use points to obtain all the components of the travel package with credit card rewards.

Where They Can be Used

Credit card miles and points can be used to get travel arrangements for nearly anywhere in the world. Travelers will need to book ahead of time to ensure they can use points to get to where they wish to go.

A Nice Perk

Because many credit card holders have been switching to the convenient points scheme instead of the traditional airline miles package, the airlines have added an inducement for using one of their rewards cards. Many airlines allow passengers who have their credit card reward program to check a bag for free. This is a real bonus in these sad days of baggage fees.

Earning Extra Miles and Points

For travelers who use their credit cards wisely, they can often pay for their entire vacations just by using rewards. Instead of using debit cards for purchases, travelers should use their credit cards to earn as many travel points or miles as possible. Travelers should check for the best credit card offers for both miles and points awarded. Consumers who do this should be sure to pay off the balance every month to avoid paying any interest or fees.



Ways to Enjoy Siena, Italy


Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

Siena is a great place in Tuscany to use as a home base for making day trips to other locations, such as Florence, the Chianti wine country, and Pisa. I spent ten days in Siena and was never at a loss for something to do. Siena itself has grand landmarks and also some lesser known places to go and things to do. Here are a few suggestions to consider.

Piazza del Campo

Everyone knows about the Campo, the second largest piazza in Italy, the place where the famous Palio horse races take place twice during the summer. This is by far the most popular meeting spot in Siena and a very cool place to people watch. The sloped piazza makes it perfect to lie down or sit in groups and have picnics, talk, write, and enjoy life in Italy.

Campo, Siena, ItalyRestaurants, cafes, pizza shops, and gelaterie are all around, so it is a perfect place to spend as much time as you like without fear of needing to find a place to eat or drink.  The fourteenth century tower, Torre del Mangia, is part of the Palazzo Pubblico or Town Hall, and at 288 feet tall is one of Siena's tallest landmarks.  Although this is one tower I did not climb, you can climb to the top via a narrow winding staircase and have the most beautiful views of the Campo below and all of Siena.

Take in a soccer game

On a whim I decided to attend a soccer game one evening and it was a thrilling experience. Siena recently moved up to the Serie A Soccer League but they still are playing in their old stadium which holds about 15,000 people. A new stadium is under construction at the southern end of the city.

Soccer, Siena, ItalySoccer fans in Siena are passionate and they love to make deafening noises on the aluminum risers as they stomp their feet with the enthusiasm only an Italian can understand. When I attended one of these games just before the team was promoted to the more prominent Serie A, I loved the passion I experienced firsthand in the stands with the local fans.

Make a stop at Consorzio Agrario di Siena

On via Pianigiani you will find a wonderful food store called Consorzio Agrario di Siena and I highly recommend spending some time inside. Here you can taste some locally produced wine, and buy the freshest prosciutto and salami. One of the largest assortments of fresh locally produced cheese takes up a case at least twenty feet wide, and with some freshly baked bread and a piece of fruit, you are set for your own picnic lunch at the Campo or on a park bench. At Consorzio Agrario you will find locally produced olive oils, vinos, pastas, and fresh fruits and vegetables. This is definitely a place not to miss.

Visit the Bottini

It's a safe bet that most tourists never heard of the Bottini, and in fact I hadn't either. The Bottini is an elaborate underground water system in Siena, and there are guided tours available here. An organization named "La Diana" will take small groups of up to eight people through this series of mazes underground. Excavation of these underground waterways began in the year 393 and not completed until sometime during the thirteenth to the fifteenth centuries.  The Bottini  run below the surface of Siena for a total of fifteen miles. I have not visited these but it is not recommended for anyone with claustrophobia or for children under the age of eight, as there are very narrow passageways in some spots. Proper footwear and even boots are also advised. This is not your typical Italian tourist excursion, but more for someone interested in doing something off the beaten path. Enjoy!

Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

Follow Margie on her blog at margieinitaly.wordpress.com


Milan’s Galleria, Spectacular Architecture and Upscale Shops

Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

Milan has a wonderful shopping arcade just across the piazza from its famous Duomo. This five-story glass-ceilinged building is the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and a must-see for anyone traveling to Milan.

This arcade has the distinction of being the oldest shopping mall on the world, and is named after one of Italy's most famous kings, King Victor Emanuele II. In fact he actually laid the first stone of this galleria in 1865. The arcade was built to connect the large Piazza del Duomo with Piazza della Scala where the opera house, La Scala is located.Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milans Galleria, Italy

Mosaic Bull, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Milan GalleriaTwo years later in 1867 the galleria opened but was not completed for another ten years. This beautiful example of architecture is one of Milan's most popular meeting spots. Its facade facing Piazza del Duomo is framed with a triumphal arch. The interior is shaped like a Latin cross with one walkway 643 feet long and the other 346 feet across. Both walkways are covered with impressive glass and iron arched ceilings which meet at an octagonal center point. This central dome 154 feet high and 118 feet wide and it truly is beautiful.

On the floor in the center of the galleria is a mosaic bull, and tradition maintains that anyone who steps on the bull's genitals, and twirls around three times, will have good fortune. My Italian friend Angela who accompanied me the first time I visited this galleria assures me that this is true, and insisted that I participate in the ritual, as she was ready with her camera. Naturally I had to do it while bystanders looked on, waiting their turn to do the same.  The area is question was so worn from people performing this ritual that there was a hole in the floor. Periodically this has to be renovated with new mosaics.Spectacular Architecture, Milan's Galleria

Aside from the spectacular architecture, the galleria features some of Milan's more upscale shops and restaurants. To name a few that grace these halls are Prada, Dolce and Gabbana, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Bernasconi, and Rizzoli Bookstore. Until recently McDonald's was also inside the galleria, which may seem unusual, but it had been there for twenty years. Their lease was not renewed this year and McDonald's no longer is inside Milan's Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.

Some of the famous restaurants and cafès in the galleria are the Savini Restaurant, Biffi Caffè, and Zucca's Bar. You may pay ten euros for a cup of cappuccino but you are in Milan's Galleria after all. Enjoy the ambience and splurge.

Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

Follow Margie on her blog at margieinitaly.wordpress.com


A Visit to Palermo, Sicily’s Capital City


Guest Post By: Margie Miklas


Palermo is the Sicilian capital and the city is known for its architectural masterpieces, but Palermo is also home to some very friendly local Sicilian people. Although it is a large city with a population of over 600 thousand people, travelers will find Palermo is an enjoyable place to wander on the streets and explore its neighborhoods.

With only part of a day to explore Palermo  I was able to see some of the highlights and get a sense of the people here, enough for me to know that I want to return when I can spend more time.  Even though the Mafia has a strong presence here despite the Italian government's efforts to defuse it, I did not feel afraid in the city because of the heavy visible police presence. Wandering around night however is a different story according an Italian friend of mine who is a police officer in Sicily. Teatro Massimo, Palermo, Sicily

Wandering around Palermo's historic district I immediately recognized the Teatro Massimo, in Piazza Verdi. It is Italy's largest theatre and was the filming location for the final climactic scene in the Godfather III film. Today live opera, concerts, ballet and other performances use this venue after over 20 years of restoration work. Guided tours are available Tuesdays through Sundays for eight euros.Church of St Ignatius of Olivella, Palermo, Sicily

The Church of St Ignatius of Olivella is a huge church which is a well-known landmark of Palermo in the historic area. Built between the years 1598 and 1732, this church is an amazing work of Baroque architecture. Unfortunately while I was there the church was closed so I was only able to appreciate the exterior.

The family-run shops and cobblestoned winding streets of Palermo are what excite me.  A look above gives a hint to the local culture and lifestyle as the balconies are decorated with   flowers and laundry is hanging out to dry.

 Walking along not far from St Ignatius Church I came across the shop of a shoemaker, and the friendly owner, Gino Conciauro, welcomed me inside to watch the other shoemaker cutting the leather for a man's pair of Sicilian shoes. It was incredible and the next time I go back to Palermo I will definitely stop in to see Gino at his shop is on via Monteleone.Apartments in Palermo, Sicily


Another of my favorite experiences in Palermo was shopping at the outside marketplace. The locals were so friendly and not at all pushy. Anything you might need was available and the prices were reasonable. They seemed genuinely pleased that an American was shopping in Palermo.


I will be visiting Palermo again next spring and hope to see La Martorana, Palermo's famous 12th century mosaics church in Piazza Bellini. See there is always a reason to return to Sicily!

Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

Follow Margie on her blog at margieinitaly.wordpress.com


Sorrento – A Favorite on the Amalfi Coast

Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

Sorrento is a lovely city on the Amalfi Coast and a great place to base yourself for day trips to Pompeii, Capri, Positano or other places along the beautiful Amalfi Coast.­­­ The first time I went to Italy I spent three days there and it was perfect. Aside from wandering through Sorrento's streets and enjoying the busy piazzas, there are two reasons I love Sorrento, limoncello and the craft known as intarsia.Sorrento, Amalfi Coast, Italy


Specific to Sorrento and the surrounding area, a refreshing alcoholic drink called limoncello (pronounced lee-mohn-CHEH-loh) is produced here from locally grown Sorrento lemons. Limoncello shops abound in Sorrento and you can also buy bottles of it almost every gift shop, tabacchi and groceria here. Its strong lemony sour taste is refreshing on a hot afternoon.

Limoncello is a liqueur which is best served chilled. It is frequently served as a palate cleanser between meal courses and also as an after dinner alcoholic beverage. I even know some Italofiles who have learned the recipe and now make it at home. Its ingredients consist of lemons, vodka, sugar and water, and of course the right amount of lemon zest. Every restaurant in Sorrento and every Sorrento family has its own recipe for this favorite drink.Limoncello shop in Sorrento, Italy

I enjoyed tasting the limoncello while I was in Italy and naturally brought some home with me. It is a very popular liqueur throughout Italy, not just the Amalfi coast. On several different occasions Italians offered me some limoncello in their homes at various times of the day. It is so popular in Italy it is almost like stopping in to visit someone in America, and they automatically offer you a Coke.Sorrento wood shop, Italy


Wooden Music Box, Sorrento, ItalyWhat I really enjoy in Sorrento is the inlaid wood or intarsia. Skilled artisans have learned this craft from previous generations, and they create beautiful jewelry boxes, music boxes, statues and even furniture.

I was lucky enough to be able to observe first hand some of these artisans at work in their small shops. Each shop is filled with templates made from different types of wood that come from trees in the surrounding area. Olive wood was one of the most popular varieties here.

The music boxes were very reasonable priced and I was able to choose which music I liked to go inside the box mechanism. Naturally one of the favorites is the popular Italian song, "Take me back to Sorrento."

I am always ready to return to Sorrento and the Amalfi coast. Time for some limoncello!

Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

Follow Margie on her blog at margieinitaly.wordpress.com


An Afternoon in Menaggio on Lake Como, Italy

Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

With a population of 3200, Menaggio is one of the larger but less touristy towns along the shores of Lake Como.  Across the lake from Varenna and Bellagio, Menaggio offers views of both of these smaller towns from its shores. I decided to check it out on my recent stay in Lake Como.

Menaggio is not that big so a walking tour is perfect to enjoy the architecture and scenery and browse the shops. Piazza Garibaldi is the main area around the ferry harbor, and from this area buses can take you to other locations on the mainland. The "old town" of Menaggio is located near here and the cobblestoned streets, ancient doors and the Baroque church of Santo Stefano all were reason enough for me to enjoy an afternoon here. Following signs to il Castello, you can walk uphill to the remnants of an ancient castle which was demolished in the 16th century. Pieces of the medieval wall still exist today near there.Menaggio on Lake Como, Italy

Menaggio is less known for its shopping and better known for its sporting activities such as hiking. For serious  hikers Menaggio is a good location to use as a base, especially since there are 12 separate trails leading into the hills above, and the lodging is much cheaper here than in Varenna or Bellagio. Hiking seems to be a major pastime here; in fact I met some Australians who were here specifically for that reason.  Old door in Menaggio, Lake Como, Italy

Other sports activities here include kayaking, cycling, and water skiing. Menaggio is one of the few towns on Lake Como with a public swimming pool. The 25 meter pool is called "Lido" and is open from Late June to mid September.

Menaggio is also famous for its annual Guitar Festival held every August since its beginning in 2005. The festival attracts famous guitarists both from Italy and across the world.

Every 2nd and 4th Friday here the markets are open in the center of town, and these are always fun events, where you can buy almost anything for a fraction of the cost that retail shops charge. Some handmade items and fresh produce and flowers are also readily available at these markets.

Piazza Garibaldi in Menaggio, Lake Como, ItalyI stopped in at Pasticceria Manzoni for a cappuccino and to sample some of the local dolci. I tasted some type of apple and raisinMenaggio apple and raisin cake Lake Como, Italy cake that was delicious, and the shopkeeper informed that this was a type of sweet cake specific to this region. 

For those avid golfers Menaggio is home to one of the oldest golf courses in Italy, The Menaggio and Cadenabbia Golf Club.  Established by the English in 1907this 18 hole golf club is very popular especially with the tourists from the United Kingdom and Australia.

Before I got on the ferry, I had to try some gelato from what looked like the best gelato place since there was a line. Gelateria Edo in Piazza Garibaldi certainly did not disappoint and was the perfect end to my afternoon in Menaggio.

Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

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Caffè Greco – Rome’s Oldest Coffee Bar

Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

When you are in Rome you can't leave without stopping in at Caffè Greco, the oldest coffee bar in Rome. A fixture for over 250 years, Caffè Greco is second only to Caffè Florian in Venice as the oldest coffee bar in Italy. Always crowded, very expensive, and very classy with waiters dressed in tails, Caffè Greco is one of a kind.

It is not only a place to get a cup of cappuccino or a cannoli but a gathering place where you can actually sit and talk about current issues or your family. Italians stand and sip their espressos in the large front lobby where the table tops are made of marble and the huge wooden bar is beautiful. Tourists as well as those who wish to stay awhile head towards the back where there are several rooms, called interna sala, adorned with red velvet and rich décor.  You will pay an extra ten euros for the privilege but the atmosphere alone is worth it.Caffè Greco  Rome, Italy

Quite an impressive list of writers artists, and composers have spent time here, and there is fact an old guestbook with yellowing pages where you can check out some of their signatures. Writers Goethe, Keats, Stendhal and D'Annunzio made this a regular hangout and Hans Christian Anderson used to live upstairs in a rented room.  Casanova was known to frequent this bar during lunchtime while he worked as secretary to the Spanish Ambassador.

Classical composers Richard Wagner, Liszt, Mendelssohn, and opera conductor Toscanini all spent hours at Caffè Greco drinking and discussing the issues of the day. Rossini was known to have composed in these rooms and even the American writer Mark Twain spent time here when he was in Rome. Today Caffè Greco is still a place where intellectuals like to come to have a sophisticated conversation.Dolci inside Caffe Greco Rome, Italy

Besides all the variations of coffee here there are rows of delicious sweets or dolci. When I was there recently I had a cannoli and even though it was six euros it was so worth it. It was one of the best I had tasted north of Sicily. I wish I had known at the time that I could have hung out in the front and eaten it at my leisure while people watching. I thought you had to pay the ten euro fee to sit down or else leave once I bought something. Next time I will spend more time and maybe even pay the ten euros   to sit in one of the rooms in the back.

Caffè Greco is almost like an art gallery since there are so many collections of old paintings and 19th century frescoes on the walls. On the walls are also some portraits of some of the more famous patrons. There are over 300 works of art here which makes this the largest private art gallery that is open to the public.

Centrally located in the heart of the historic area of Rome, Caffè Greco is located on via Condotti not far from the Spanish Steps. Open daily from 9-7 Caffè Greco is always an interesting place full of life. The house specialty features coffee made with lemon and orange and is called "Paradiso." Don't miss a visit here on your next trip to Rome. You will not regret it.

Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

Follow Margie on her blog at margieinitaly.wordpress.com


How to Enjoy the Italian City of Bologna

Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

Not exactly on the top ten list of places to go in Italy, Bologna is a great city to visit if you like architecture, young people and food. I spent a few days there last spring and totally enjoyed the vibe. A cosmopolitan city, Bologna is home to the oldest university in the world and the portico-covered sidewalks and streets are filled with young people. With a population of around 375,000, and an additional 90,000 university students, Bologna isn't really overrun with tourists.

Students in Bologna , ItalyOne of the things I found most interesting in Bologna is the number of porticoes or coverings over the sidewalks. Some of these are works of art in themselves with frescoes painted on the inside of these elaborate coverings. Found over almost every sidewalk, these porticoes make it unnecessary to worry about the need for an umbrella. They are beautiful and make for great photo ops.

Due, Torri, Bologna ItalyOne  of the most photographed monuments in Bologna is the Due Torri or "Two Towers." One was under construction while I was there so my photos are not as great as I would have liked but the height of these landmarks is awesome. Both are leaning due to unstable foundations and the smaller one leans much more than the taller tower. Torres degli Asinelli is the taller tower and measures 318 feet high. You can climb the 500 steps if you like to have a great view of the city at no charge except your own risk.
The shorter tower, Torres degli Garisenda is half the height of the taller tower and is 157 feet tall, and there  is no option to climb this one.

The University of Bologna is home to 5000 foreign students, and the streets of Bologna can frequently be the venue for demonstrations or manifestazione. I enjoy the energy of the college students and found them to be very friendly and engaging. I actually stayed at a dorm of another university while visiting there and the accommodation was simple but adequate and very economical.

Bistro 18 in Bologna, ItalyNo one can go to Bologna without enjoying some of the regional specialties, since this is the gastronomic capital of the world. I am not a foodie so I was happy to sit outside and enjoy a glass of wine and some pizza during the aperitivo hour. Of course the ambience at an outside restaurant on a side street made it taste even better. You cannot go home without a stop at La Sorbetteria Castiglione, known for the best gelato anywhere. Naturally I had to check it out and it did not disappoint. I highly recommend a stay in this historic Italian city.

Portico, Bolonga, Italy













Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

Follow Margie on her blog at margieinitaly.wordpress.com


Insider Tips for Visiting the Vatican

Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

Visiting the Vatican while in Rome is one of the main agendas for most travelers to Italy. Vatican City is its own independent city-state and the smallest in the world, both by population and area. Established in 1929 as part of the Lateran Treaty, this walled UNESCO World Heritage site is actually within the city limits of Rome, on the left bank of the Tiber River.

St Peters Square Vatican City, ItalyAlways crowded with tourists, the Vatican takes up the better part of a day for a visit.  Having visited the Vatican on five separate occasions, I have learned a few things. These insider tips can make the most of your time at the Vatican, and hopefully will make your day more enjoyable.

The Pieta, Virgin Mary holding JesusKnow the best times to go

Crowds Inside Vatican Museum Vatican City, ItalyWhen planning your time in Rome, try to plan to visit the Vatican when it is less crowded. The fall and spring are the best seasons as far as crowds are concerned. Stay away on Saturdays, Sundays, and Mondays, and also Wednesdays if the Pope is in town. The weekends are always very crowded and especially the last Sunday of the month because the entrance is free.  You still will likely pay a price, however, in the 2 or 3 hour wait you will have on those Sundays.

It is a good idea to arrive either first thing in the morning, or between 11 and mid-day. It seems that by then the crowds have dissipated, but then soon afterwards they start lining up again.

Buy advance purchase tickets and skip the line

The Vatican has been selling tickets on their website so that you can purchase these in advance and skip the long lines for the museums. The entrance fee is 15 euros and there is an additional fee of 4 euros to purchase tickets online. Students with ID get a reduced rate. You may find however, that despite having advance tickets, many other travelers have done the same thing, so there are two lines, one for those with tickets and one for those who still need to buy tickets. Remember nothing happens fast in Italy.

Adhere to the dress code

The one place in Italy where the dress code is strictly enforced is the Vatican. Security personnel keep a close watch on the crowd, and there are big signs informing everyone of the rules. On more than one occasion I have seen them turn away women with tank tops until they can find a way to cover their shoulders. (A scarf will do).

Even in the heat of the summer, shorts are not allowed. Miniskirts or bare shoulders for either men or women are definitely not acceptable. This is particularly enforced in St Peter's Basilica, although the Vatican website indicates the dress code also is meant for the Vatican museums.

Guards at Vatican City, ItalyNo photography in the Sistine Chapel

The Vatican museums encompass many different museums and it actually can be overwhelming. The final room is the one everyone wants to see, the Sistine Chapel with Michelangelo's frescoed ceiling. Security is tight in this room and absolutely no photography or video is allowed. The authorities are continually announcing "silenzio, no foto, no video," and they are serious. They will confiscate any cameras they see being used here.

Bring a snack and some water

A day at the Vatican can be a long day and there are no places to buy food or beverages inside. It is wise to bring a few snacks or protein bars and some water as well to get you through the day. There are places outside of St Peter's Square but once you are in line, you'll be glad you brought something of your own.

Enjoy this day at one of the most visited places in the entire world. I can almost guarantee that you will want to return one day.

Guest Post By: Margie Miklas

Follow Margie on her blog at margieinitaly.wordpress.com

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